Monday, September 27, 2010

The Washington Post Takes a Trip To Cleveland

Check out this great article on Cleveland from Washington Post Travel Section:

Impulsive Traveler: A Cleveland neighborhood rises above the city's Rust Belt image
By Maryann Haggerty
Special to The Washington Post


There's something appropriate about going to Cleveland to pay homage to Bruce Springsteen, the poet of Rust Belt rock. What I didn't expect in that much-maligned city was a fun neighborhood of historic bed-and-breakfast inns, up-to-the-minute restaurants and one of the best traditional food markets I have ever visited.

Cleveland, about seven hours by car from the Beltway, was the first stop my husband and I planned on a longer Midwestern road trip. The goal was to see the special Springsteen exhibit that runs through Dec. 31 at the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame downtown. But somehow, nearly every downtown hotel room was booked by convention-goers.

Serendipity (and some Internet trawling) led us to a B&B, the J. Palen House. Maps showed it a few miles from downtown, across the Cuyahoga River and close to a station on the city's light rail system.
Make no mistake, the Great Recession has battered Cleveland, already shaky from the decline of Midwestern manufacturing. The neighborhood around the J. Palen House isn't the hardest hit, but it's transitional. The B&B, a pretty purple Victorian, was the most obviously gentrified building on its block. Rooms were large and lovely, with the sort of flouncy touches that turn a night on the road into a romantic interlude.

The host, Scott West, offered us a tour of the neighborhood, called Ohio City. No big deal, he assured us; the walk would take just a few minutes.

As Scott led us past solid renovated houses and a few old industrial buildings, he explained that Ohio City is one of Cleveland's oldest neighborhoods, once an independent city and home to Irish and German immigrants, including brewers. There's still a sweet-stale smell of beer in the air, but now it comes from Great Lakes Brewing Co., which opened in 1988. (Although it has microbrewery cred, Great Lakes is more than a corner brewpub with a few copper tanks. It ships 100,000 barrels a year.)

We turned the corner onto Market Avenue, a restaurant-lined block lively with young Clevelanders. Scott pointed out the highlights - the Flying Fig, considered one of the city's best locavore restaurants; a nice wine bar; the Great Lakes brewpub. Around the next corner, on 25th Street, there were more shiny new restaurants mixed in with worn neighborhood storefronts. And a few hundred yards away, in a handsome red-brick building with an eye-catching clock tower, was the West Side Market, one of those century-old food-stall palaces. Later, I found that city boosters are trying to brand the immediate neighborhood the Market District and attract even more restaurants and food-oriented retailers.

We started the evening with a pint at Great Lakes - I opted for the Burning River Pale Ale, a nod to the bad old days, when the Cuyahoga infamously caught fire. Dinner at the Flying Fig was all that a fashionable New American farm-to-table meal should be: creative, fresh, seasonal. Afterward, we wandered the little neighborhood and learned that in this city with brutal winters, the locals flock to sidewalk cafes and outdoor beer gardens on a pleasant summer evening. We read menus and added to our list of must-visit places for our short stay: Bar Cento for Italian-ish; Momocho, several blocks away, for what it called Mod Mex.

In the morning, we took the Red Line of the light-rail system, the Rapid, to the main Tower City station downtown. After a frustrating wait there, we determined that the Waterfront line, which runs near the Rock Hall, no longer operates on weekdays even though it's on all the system's maps. Nobody had bothered to put up a sign on the platform, and transit employees were dismissive. It turns out that most service on the line, always underused, was discontinued this year for budget reasons. I grumbled, but as we knew from past visits, the walk to the Rock Hall is less than a mile. Did you know that Bruce, who made his name as the voice of the gritty '70s, was touring around the country in the 1960s, long before he became famous? Or how much he paid for the guitar he held on the cover of "Born to Run"? (It was $180, maybe $185, Bruce recalls - a fortune to him at the time.) Or how little I probably paid for my ticket to the "BTR" concert in 1975, if the other posters from that tour are any guide? (If I paid more than $10, I should have had a much better seat.)

The Hall lets you go in and out all day, so you're not stuck with a museum cafeteria. We decided against Iron Chef Michael Symon's downtown restaurant, Lola, instead opting to hunt down Polish Boy sandwiches. The Polish Boy, a very local specialty, is a sausage topped with cole slaw, French fries and barbecue sauce. I know, but it's good - and we found some not far away, at a hole-in-the-wall called Freddie's Southern Style Rib House.

But the highlight - the big pig-out revelation - came the morning we visited the West Side Market. It's huge, vastly outsizing Capitol Hill's beloved Eastern Market. It's sparkling clean, putting Baltimore's Lexington Market to shame. And the variety! Pasta, sausage, cheese, pastry, pierogies, tamales, meat, meat, meat. (Produce, not so hot.)

We still had two weeks of road trip ahead, so we restrained ourselves, buying a pound of raw-milk Amish cheddar, pretzel-and-cheese concoctions called pretzel boats, and some spicy distant cousins of beef jerky known as smokies. A few days later, when we finished the cheese, we agreed to shift our route home and swing back through Cleveland.

This time, it was the J. Palen House that had no rooms available, so we stayed in another romantic, historic Ohio City B&B, Stone Gables. We had dinner in yet another local-food restaurant and the next morning filled a cooler with yet more West Side Market purchases - beef pasties, chicken enchiladas, pasta, bread, sausage, cheese, smokies. After all, it was only a seven-hour drive home.

Saturday, September 25, 2010

Making Government Work


The recent arrests of County Commissioner Jimmy Dimora and former County Auditor Frank Russo further cemented the fact that Cuyahoga County government has been paralyzed by lack of accountability and transparency.  For years, Dimora, Russo, and others used their office and taxpayer dollars to advance their own political and personal interests, while the region they served witnessed massive brain drain and lost thousands of jobs. Incompetent leadership in government at any level is a recipe for conventional thinking and persistent decline. For Cuyahoga County, and the Greater Cleveland area, this is has been a sad reality for far too long. However, with the new county charter and the upcoming county elections, there is a small glimmer of hope that the newly elected leaders will put restoring faith in government as their number one priority.

When voters head to the polls on November 2nd, the most important vote they cast will be for the newly elected county executive. So far, a majority of the candidates have a promised specific policies to promote openness and transparency. According to a survey conducted by the Cleveland Plain Dealer, a majority of the candidates agreed to the following provisions:

  • Make public records available without delay
  • Provide timely access to their calendars of public business
  • Disclose any gifts they receive as public officials and the values of them
These are all steps in the right direction. Yet, beyond these basic recommendations, voters should look towards putting their faith in the candidate who best articulates a vision and a plan to usher in a new era of leadership in county government. One that is grounded in understanding the fundamental challenges our region faces in today's global economy, not based upon patronage and favoritism. As the sole shareholders of our region, citizens must take their vote seriously. We must hold our elected officials accountable. Each of us have a stake in the economic prosperity of our region. To invoke the words of Thomas Paine, let us begin the work of remaking our county. If we wait any longer, it may be too late. 


Wednesday, September 8, 2010

A Bold Call to Action

The continued challenges facing the Warehouse District have forced many leaders in Cleveland to reassess the cities viability as destination for young professionals. Reverend Jawanza Karriem Colvin wrote a compelling editorial articulating his vision for the city. It's a bold reminder to all of us who care deeply about the future of our city. Check out the piece below:

Finding Strength in Open Minds:


Last week's reports on the arrest, detention and alleged beating of two African-American corporate executives in the Warehouse District are disturbing, but unfortunately not surprising. The Warehouse District, a section of the city that at its best should reflect the trendy, cosmopolitan character of Cleveland, is gaining a reputation for racial insensitivity.

Coupled with the shocking allegations of police misconduct, this incident only complicates attempts to successfully market the city and the region to aspiring young professionals. As we know, the recruitment of this population is an important part of fulfilling any hopes of regional prosperity, which can positively impact the quality of life for our communities and neighborhoods.

The arrival of bright, vibrant and energetic persons seeking to begin their careers with the prospect of eventually settling down, starting families and making civic contributions is an increasing reality for some American cities and an urban planner's dream in others. Today, growing and emerging regions recognize that this is a population they simply cannot do without. They also recognize this is a demographic that is increasingly diverse in race, culture and place of origin.

As a result, the message is clear: Tolerating intolerance is self-defeating.

If Cleveland and Northeast Ohio are going to attract a new generation of talent, they must -- along with reimagining the local economy -- continue to nurture an inclusive and open environment across racial, cultural and geographical lines. Historically, such lines, instead of being points of meeting for healthy discourse on our commonalities and differences, have become intersections of ignorance and discrimination.

As this region wrestles to find its 21st-century political and economic identity, it must expend similar intellectual and soul-searching capital to frame a new cultural one. It must do so or risk lagging behind in a competitive global marketplace where the talent pool is multiracial, multicultural and more tolerant of differences than previous generations.

How do we accomplish this?

There are no quick formulas or magic potions for changing hearts and minds, nor are there assurances that the embracing of inclusion in our personal lives will translate into more progressive policies and practices, or vice versa. However, there is an opportunity and a challenge. The opportunity at this moment is to celebrate the growing diversity of our region and to continue to increase such efforts in defiance of the pockets of prejudice that still remain in sectors of the public, private and commercial arenas.

The challenge is to summon the courage to confront our deeply embedded historical, cultural and institutional "isms," which can manifest themselves in the form of glass ceilings, abuses of power and violations of the most basic civil and human rights. W.E.B. Dubois, the famed African-American sociologist, asserted that the greatest issue of the 20th century would be the color line. It is a new century but, sadly, we have still not solved this old, vexing problem of race and difference; and while some pray for it to simply go away, the future will not wait for us. As a matter of fact, it's time to catch up.

Colvin is the pastor of Olivet Institutional Baptist Church in Cleveland.